Notts tie maker Emma Moore has been redefining the humble neck tie for almost a decade, with her statement handmade ties serving the perfect eye-catching piece to complete any outfit. Fashion editor Addie Kenogbon-Harley caught up with her to find out more about her business Arsenic and Old Lace, and how she’s putting her spin on this timeless classic with her collections inspired by Midlands towns.
With a name like Arsenic and Old Lace, it’s hard not to conjure up images of dapper gents of yesteryear. And, given the Nottingham brand’s namesake: a 1940s dark comedy from the silver screen, it’s easy to see why. Owner Emma Moore chose the name due to its old-age feel and its subtle nod to Nottingham’s historic ties to the lace industry. However, just like the film and play which in many ways went against the grain with its release to critical acclaim, Emma is far from your traditional tie maker, and is pushing the boundaries of what was often considered to be a masculine accessory.
“There are lots of [tie] suppliers out there that are still really focusing on that true English gent with their brand, their language and their photography,” Emma says. “We always, from day one, tried to step away from that. I really did want it to be about ties for everyone. I don't want it to feel stuffy but be a bit more inclusive.”
Sporting a collection of colourful handmade neckties and bow ties for all genders, Arsenic and Old Lace is redefining what has historically been a symbol of wealth and the quintessential English gentleman. Fuelled by a deep passion for quality, creativity and originality, its signature pieces feature bold prints, splashes of colour and joyful blooms.
Born and bred in Nottingham, Emma’s love for the city and the surrounding region has been poured into each of her creations; each piece taking inspiration from a different Midlands town, city or village.
These include the Shipley which features a Liberties Lodden print in greens, creams and blues, originally designed by William Morris in 1884, and the Sherwood which features fabric from the latest Summer House Collection of Liberty fabric designs, drawing inspiration from 17th and 19th century orangeries with soft mauve, sage green and pale blue conservatory fruits. Meanwhile, the Nottingham sports a vibrant version of William Morris’ iconic Strawberry Thief print, with navy, shades of blue and bright pops of eye-catching neon.
Emma says, “For our Nottingham range we were inspired by quite a few of the businesses that have been based and founded in Nottingham, Paul Smith obviously being one of them. So it had to be bright, it had to be a little different. We always try and choose prints that are a little bit more obscure and look for ones that aren't overly popular and that aren't already being done.”
It doesn't have to be formal, it doesn't have to be for a white collar event. There are no set rules now, so ties don't have to specifically be for men.
Recent years have seen perceptions of tie wearing shift, with the accessory no longer just worn by men in boardrooms or at weddings. Today, celebrities such as Grammy award-winner and rapper Doechii, are shifting the dial on femininity and style, with iconic gender-blending looks. Her recent Grammy red carpet look was one prime example, featuring a grey pinstripe ball gown coupled with a crisp white shirt and matching grey pinstripe tie from Thom Browne. It’s a trend that feeds into the Arsenic and Old Lace ethos of creating timeless pieces that can be worn by all genders.
“I think that's the thing now, it can be much more fun,” Emma explains. “It doesn't have to be formal, it doesn't have to be for a white collar event. There are no set rules now, so ties don't have to specifically be for men. And we try to incorporate that into the brand. The landscape's changing completely. I think people are stepping away from fast fashion too. They want to be unique. They want pieces that no one else is going to be sporting.”
“We now get requests from females from all different age groups,” she adds. “It’ll be people for prom in their teen years, right up to people that are going to formal dinners. But the whole demographic has changed over the years because I think people are freer to just do themselves, and wear what they want.
“I've sold lots of bow ties to females for same sex marriages and there was a girl recently who wanted a bespoke tie to wear for her prom because she didn't want to wear a dress, she wanted a sparkly self tied bow tie. Our customer base is quite split, which is interesting with the brand because I never wanted to make it too masculine.”
The necktie has roots which date back as far as the 17th century, with the Croatian cravat ushering in a new accessory for European noblemen. While it had many iterations over the centuries, including the introduction of the Steinkirk and the bow tie, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that the modern necktie that we’re all familiar with came to being.
The past hundred years have seen the necktie take on many shapes and styles including the bold wide based ties of the ‘80s and ‘90s and the classic indie, skinny tie of the ‘00s. However, it is still in many ways a male-centric industry, with many of the UK’s popular tie manufacturers still headed up by men. This is something Emma has come up against herself as a female tie maker.
She says, “I think it's hard to break that perception of it being a hobby. So if a male were to launch a business and say, ‘Right, I'm making ties and bow ties’, it would be considered a business, but that’s not always the case for females.”
The brand has shipped pieces to customers in 42 countries, with people all over the globe keen to get their hands on a treasured piece. But, despite this, Emma remains true to her roots, helping to fly the Midlands flag through her pieces, something she says has resonated with so many of her customers.
“I now get a lot of customers who contact me and say, ‘My wife's grandfather was from such an area, or I know this place’ and buy pieces with prints named after that place which is really lovely,” she says. “Even though we ship all over the world, we still try to pay homage in the brand to the Midlands, by keeping the authenticity and the heritage of Nottingham. We also do this by incorporating a duck in our branding and in our language. It was quite a brave move because a huge proportion of my customer base is from the USA and I wasn’t sure whether they’d get it, but we did it and it seems to work.”
As well as her core range, Emma also offers bespoke ties, with her ‘family ties’ pieces being particularly special for her.
“Our family ties pieces mean people can supply garments from perhaps a past loved one such as a grandpa's old shirts. Or, a treasured garment from somebody that’s passed away, or it might be a baby's first birthday shirt and they don't want to store it away in a cupboard. I then take these and transform them into keepsakes, which can be quite emotional. I'd like to think that when someone purchases them, they would stay within that family for a long time.”
Buy one of Emma’s eye-catching pieces on her website at arsenicandoldlace.co.uk
[Instagram] @arsenicandoldlaceaccessories
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