Many people pass by the Tesco Express on Parliament Street in Nottingham every day, unaware of the rich history behind this iconic building. Known simply as the Express Building, this early Gothic-style masterpiece stands as a testament to the brilliant vision of renowned British architect Watson Fothergill. For over a century, it has been a distinctive feature of Nottingham’s cityscape - serving multiple purposes, adapting with time, and telling the story of a city in transition.
Watson Fothergill (1841–1928) was one of Nottingham’s most celebrated architects. His unique and imaginative architectural style left an indelible mark on the city, shaping the way its streets and skylines look to this day. Fothergill’s use of Gothic Revival, Old English, and Queen Anne styles, combined with meticulous decorative details, created buildings that were not only functional but also visually striking.
Fothergill's architectural contributions range from commercial and office buildings to residential and public spaces, ensuring that his work touched almost every aspect of city life. His designs are easily recognizable by their ornate turrets, gables, and elaborate chimneys, elements that lend a medieval or Tudor flair to his buildings. Each structure serves as a piece of art, offering Nottingham a cohesive yet varied architectural identity.
The Birth of the Express Building
The Express Building was originally constructed in 1876 as the headquarters for the Nottingham Daily Express, a Liberal newspaper that was a major voice in the city from 1860 until 1918. Fothergill’s design for the newspaper’s office perfectly reflected the paper’s values, with its Gothic features and intricate carvings representing both the political leanings of the publication and the artistic sensibilities of its architect.
In 1899, Fothergill added a fourth floor to the building to accommodate the newspaper's new linotype machines. This alteration created a unique architectural quirk: the building bears two signatures of Fothergill, as he had changed his name from Fothergill Watson during this time. According to local tour guide Lucy Brouwer, who includes the building on her Watson Fothergill Walk, this detail is a rare and intriguing aspect of the building’s history. “One architect with two names on the same building. I think this might be unique,” Brouwer says.
The architectural details of the Express Building offer a glimpse into Fothergill’s genius. The intricate stone carvings, pointed arches, and decorative motifs adorning the building’s facade reflect his meticulous craftsmanship
A Changing Landscape
As the Nottingham Daily Express folded in 1918, the building found new life, housing various commercial and retail ventures over the decades. The ground floor became home to businesses such as Richard Allsop’s Saddlery, followed by other local shops throughout the 20th century. By the 1950s, a large clock on the second floor added another layer of character to the building, and shops like Watmough’s Sweets and Mick Smalley’s Outfitters occupied its lower levels.
The 1980s saw a wave of change, as the building underwent restoration work to preserve its historic facade. The ground floor continued to host retail outlets, with businesses like Feather and Black, a home interiors shop, and Caffe Latino, a Mexican restaurant, contributing to the building’s varied history.
In 2018, the Express Building embarked on its most significant transformation yet. The upper floors were redeveloped into 36 modern studio apartments, primarily designed as student accommodations. Developer 29 Stoney Street LLP and architect DL Design Studio worked meticulously to preserve the building’s historic Gothic exterior while creating contemporary living spaces. This careful balance between old and new ensured that the building could continue serving Nottingham's evolving community.
Above: a portrait of Watson Fothergill by Christine Dilks
The Express Building’s Architectural and Journalistic Legacy
The architectural details of the Express Building offer a glimpse into Fothergill’s genius. The intricate stone carvings, pointed arches, and decorative motifs adorning the building’s facade reflect his meticulous craftsmanship. Above the doorway, carved heads of prominent Liberal statesmen - Richard Cobden, William Gladstone, and John Bright - serve as a reminder of the Nottingham Daily Express's political leanings.
Inside, the building’s history is further reflected in tiles that depict key historical figures, including Queen Victoria and Lord Palmerston. Fothergill’s style was heavily inspired by Gothic Revivalist William Burges, with elements like the building’s corner tower and carved beasts echoing Burges’ influence.
Beyond architecture, the Express Building is notable for its place in Nottingham’s journalistic history. Renowned figures like writer Graham Greene, who briefly served as sub-editor at the Nottingham Daily Journal in the 1920s, and J.M. Barrie, author of Peter Pan, once roamed its halls. Today, even the interior decor of the Express Studios - a nod to the Art Deco period that pays homage to this storied past.
A Modern-Day Revival
Despite its historical significance, the Express Building has faced challenges in recent years, with its exterior suffering damage that has prompted ongoing restoration efforts. Nevertheless, the building remains a symbol of resilience and adaptability in Nottingham’s ever-changing urban landscape. As it continues to evolve, it honours its past while embracing new roles, ensuring its place as a vibrant cornerstone of the city.
Watson Fothergill’s legacy lives on not only in the Express Building but also in his many other architectural masterpieces scattered across Nottingham. From the Queen’s Chambers on King Street to his offices on George Street, Fothergill’s distinct style defines much of the city’s architectural identity. His work is celebrated through guided tours, exhibitions, and publications, helping to keep his vision alive for future generations.
The Express Building stands as more than just a monument to Nottingham’s past; it’s a living piece of the city’s history. Its ability to adapt over the years; from newspaper headquarters to retail space, from a saddlery to student apartments - reflects the dynamism of Nottingham itself. Fothergill’s unique architectural flair, combined with the building’s journalistic heritage, ensures that it remains an essential part of the city’s character.
For tourists and locals alike, the Express Building offers a tangible connection to Nottingham’s rich history, while ongoing preservation efforts ensure that it will continue to inspire generations to come. As Nottingham grows and changes, the Express Building stands as a lasting reminder of where the city has been, and where it’s going.
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