If hidden gems are rife in Nottingham, they are rifest in the Lace Market. Open since 1973 on Victoria Street, and now tucked away on Barker Gate, Eviva Taverna offers up a unique, Greek-Cypriot experience. Walking down the stairs with bare-bricked walls, it was easy to get excited. The place gives an immediate feel of someone’s home – and a place like that is always going to have amazing food.
It’s spacious, but maintains an intimate feel. Landing your subconscious somewhere you can feel the sun warming the walls from the outside – where the wine is good. It’s easy to forget you’re in the middle of Nottingham. We went for the King’s Mezze (£22 each), because we are kings, but also because it is the most beautiful-sounding thing. Eight courses of absolute indulgence, brought with impeccable timing, allowing our bellies to breathe… ish.
First up was a traditional Greek salad with pittas and dips – chunky hummus, moreish taramasalata, tzatziki, pitta breads and gorgeous mixed pickles. The size of the starter made eyes pop, and with the creamy feta and salty olive combo, and the tangy pickled pepper kicker, there was no chance of being polite. Forks were in, in full force.
Next up were the keftedes (juicy, crumbling Greek meatballs), dolmas (herby, rich minced meat and rice wrapped in vine leaves) along with green beans, egg and tomato. Then it was time for halloumi and lountza ham – both with that crispy, grilled edge, with seriously smoky, salty goodness in the centres.
The fish platter was next, with king prawns, mussels and calamari. The king prawns were the best, with the mussels a close second – both a rich taste of the sea. We could practically hear the waves crashing. Or maybe that was the wine...
We were getting full up by this point, but when a perfect slab of creamy, meaty moussaka landed, it was wolfed down. Same with the perfectly cooked grill platter of lamb, pork and chicken with notably tasty rice, and stifado that defied the laws of physics by fitting in our bellies.
To finish, a selection of fresh fruit was just what we needed to make us feel better about gaining ten stone over the course of three hours. Yes, three hours. A comfortably lengthy evening I’ll have a difficult time forgetting. Even as we left, owner Nick was teaching a few regulars his Greek dancing moves. The place is a rare treasure trove that lands somewhere between your gran’s kitchen and Shirley Valentine’s table overlooking the sea. I can’t wait to go back. Bridie Squires
Barker Gate, Lace Market, NG1 1JU. 0115 958 0243 Eviva Taverna website
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