We are a nation of fish and chip experts; few other meals are as deeply etched into our national identity. It’s one of those peculiar dishes where the finest examples are so commonly found away from the finest establishments - the chippy at the bottom of the street where we grew up was, for most of us, the best in the world. It’s a meal that resists evolution. Chefs who fuss with the formula are culinary heretics, betraying fond memories of devouring vinegar soaked chips on a freezing, windswept seafront.
George’s is now to be found at the bottom of eleven Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire streets - the next generation of young experts have never had it so good this far from the sea. But what about the ageing experts? Would they struggle to decide between traditionally battered cod and charcoal-grilled sea bass?
George’s Great British Kitchen gives us exactly that in their first city centre restaurant - a concept far removed from serving takeaway on a plate. Avoiding clichés, with the exception of the magnificent chandelier and cute beach-hut dining booths upstairs, the industrial interior is comfortable and, unusually for a Monday night in early January, humming with chatter.
Armed with gin martini cocktails from the bar (£5.95), we explored their exciting menu and decided upon sharing three starter dishes (£15): pop seafood – mussels, scampi and queen scallops in breadcrumbs with aioli; George’s Scotch eggs – (our favourite) served with phenomenal home-made piccalilli; and some outstanding vegetable fritters – asparagus, broccoli and cauliflower in onion bhaji batter, with goats cheese and sweet pea pesto.
Traditional mains were the acid test; 100% sustainable cod fillet in a near-perfect batter, served with a shovel of chips and righteously gloopy mushy peas (£11.45) and a rich and tasty steak and ale pie (£10.50). Crispy onion rings (£2.50) on the side beefed up already generous portions.
It is not without shame that at this point our appetites ground to a halt. A dessert menu featuring ice cream and homemade donuts was declined in favour of coffee.
George’s has modernised the experience of dining out for fish and chips without alienating what makes it so British. The menu works hard to please both fussy and adventurous eaters and you’ll almost certainly want to return to try something new. Alex Traska
13 Queen Street, NG1 2BL. 0115 950 5521
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