Since the demise of the much-loved Bar De Nada a few years ago, a Spanish-style eating and drinking experience falling between the absolute mediocrity of La Tasca and the excellent-but-premium offering of Iberico World Tapas has been missing from our streets. Tapastry is one of the latest restaurants vying for that opportunity, in what is suddenly a hotly contested space.
Tapastry is chef and proprietor Matt’s first stab at the challenge of tempting Nottingham’s foodie crew to stick their neck out into the no man’s land that exists immediately beyond the wildly successful Costa-del-Broad Street. With front of house support from fiancée Mel, the team are helping in the spread of interesting, independent places to eat and drink to Heathcoat Street with their occupation of the former site of Aubergine vegetarian restaurant.
In keeping with Spanish tradition, Tapastry encourage a leisurely approach to drinking and dining. Matt was keen to mention that whether you've come for a snack, a meal, or just an ice cold cerveza, you'll not be rushed to vacate your perch. Fortunately, for those in for the whole nine yards, their menu features classic tapas favourites (padron peppers, patatas bravas, shrimp in garlic butter, et al) alongside dishes that will appeal to the slightly more adventurous diner. We chose a generous portion of slow-roasted belly pork with apple and morcilla, a type of Spanish black pudding (£7); salt cod mousse and olive bread (£5.85), which was in need of some acidity to cut through the salt; and wonderful Devon crab croquettes (£4.95) to go with the aforementioned classics.
A bottle of tempranillo (Bodegas Maximo, £22.50 and worth every penny) was a mid-price selection from their modest wine list, which features well-selected Spanish varieties. Hopefully their selection will grow to include decently-priced wines and Spanish sherries. Another bottle of red (hic) and a Spanish cheese platter (£6) more than rounded off our appetites.
The most refreshing aspect of this casual and cosy, self-styled ‘Tapas and Wine Tavern’ was its humble approach. Our three-hour evening at Tapastry felt like being involved with the start of a plan that is not yet finished; an altogether more exciting adventure than being a paying spectator to a chef or owners’ realised plans for a contrived, homeware-catalogue dining experience.
As opposed to chains whose dishes are developed behind closed doors, or independent restaurants emulating that formula, Matt seems genuinely motivated to engage with his customers in order to learn, refine and evolve. I’m looking forward to regularly checking in to see how those plans are coming along at this fine addition to Nottingham’s dining scene. Alex Traska 23-25 Heathcoat Street, NG1 3AG. 0115 9412669
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